Algonquin Park Wilderness Canoe Trip

Algonquin Park
Wilderness Canoe Trip
Cedar Lake to Mink Lake Region
September 10-16, 2000
by Norm Hooper
Part 3

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Another Story
by Norm Hooper

During the night, Norm R. had to be awakened a few times by Wayne because of his constant snoring. It wasn’t until morning that Norm R. informed us that Wayne had disturbed him in the middle of one of the most beautiful dreams he had ever experienced. In it, gorgeous ladies were frolicking about merrily; but unfortunately, he was never able to see any of their faces! Norm R. indicated that he was quite sure his wife wasn’t in the dream (apparently this was a familiar occurrence in past dreams)! This resulted in many "chuckles" throughout the week and it became an unwritten rule that Norm R. was not to be disturbed during the night, whether he was snoring or not. Unfortunately, Norm R. was never able to return to this particular dream and we will never know the ending – something to be said about the "spirits of the wilderness"!

Sept 12^th – Energy eluded us this morning as a result of yesterday’s arduous portaging. Our challenge was the muscle stiffness we were experiencing. Our counterattack was to spend some time just vegetating on a bench with a cup of coffee and enjoying the view of the countryside across the calm lake. Surprisingly, our shoulder and back muscles were not as sore as the previous evening - the tossing and turning during the night in an effort to find a comfortable spot on the hard ground did not seem to worsen our delicate status. After reviewing our map, we decided to take a side trip to Hurdman Lake and scuttle our original plan to Carl Wilson Lake - a trip that would have initially involved three long, strenuous portages up and over a steep escarpment and back again. At this point, we had to remind ourselves of the importance of "flexibility" (forgive the pun!!) on this trip because of our lack of a fourth canoeist and that our goal was to enjoy ourselves and not to encounter too much "hardship".

in the narrows

plant growth on a log

By 10 am, we were on Cedar Lake heading in a westerly direction and into a slight headwind. Wayne took over Norm H’s canoe and went solo. At the end of Little Cedar Lake, we had to draw cautiously on some keen navigating tactics in order to avoid striking the sharp shoals lying beneath the dark, shallow waters. The various colours on the rocks from canoe bottoms definitely indicated that other canoeists were not so fortunate – it’s a "jolt of the senses" when one does hit an object, like a shoal, unexpectedly – Wayne discovered this on his return trip. Once through this passage, we entered a narrow channel with ends of logs partially protruding out of the water’s surface. One such log was very unique because, over the years, it had collected enough soil and seeds from the passing winds to have plants growing in a crevice - it made for an exquisite picture in a natural setting. We passed under the cement train bridge and into Aura Lee Lake where we met a father and son loading their canoe, their destination was Mink Lake. After viewing the initial part of the portage to Carl Wilson Lake, we were satisfied with our decision not to venture there.

At 11 am, we reached the beginning of our next portage leading to Laurel Lake. We decided to leave Wayne’s canoe at this location and utilize one canoe, with Norm R. agreeing to be the "middle man" on our journey to Hurdman Lake. It was a short distance to cross Laurel Lake and an interesting sight awaited us – eight canoes with their occupants attempting to make the "day’s catch"! In order to enter the main part of Hurdman Lake, it required hauling our canoe over yet another beaver dam. Again, at the end of the lake next to a stream, we met two canoeists fishing – their catch, at this point, were a couple of bass. The hills on both sides of the lake held evidence of logging having taken place approximately 75-100 years ago by the growth and size of specific tress, especially the birch. We stopped at a campsite to prepare lunch. A light drizzle attempted to spoil our meal and we took shelter under a large pine to cook our soup and to keep dry. Just as we finished eating, it stopped raining and we continued on with our return trip. Instead of returning via the two portages attached to Laurel Lake, we decided to follow a stream involving three smaller portages that would lead us to where Wayne’s canoe was stored. As hindsight would have it, if we had known what we were about to encounter, we would have returned by way of the original route. The stream’s water level was very low with large boulders protruding everywhere, with many submerged rocks barely seen under the dark water – paddling was impossible with the three of us in one canoe. At the second portage, a near disaster occurred when Norm H. slipped and his foot became lodged between two rocks. He was fortunate to have only received some scrapes and bruises as he could have easily broken his leg.

Just as we located Wayne’s canoe, dark clouds descended upon us and it began to rain again. We took shelter under some trees for about ten minutes. Halfway down Aura Lee Lake, a fierce wind relentlessly pounded sheets of rain upon us – thunder and lightning was our main concern, but we were denied that experience! Paddling with a tailwind, we quickly reached the cement train bridge to take protection underneath. After a short delay, we continued on down the channel, through the shallow shoal passage and onto Little Cedar Lake. By this time, the winds had picked up again from a westerly direction and the waves became our advantage. Just before reaching our base camp at 3:45 pm, two loons greeted us and welcomed our return. After "skinny" dipping and washing some laundry, we sat with hot chocolate in hand around a campfire. We began to notice a similar pattern in the weather - strong winds blowing over the lake in mid-afternoon and lasting until about 5 pm. It would be something to watch out for during future outings.

When Norm H. turned over his canoe, a deep gouge, approximately the size of a dime, was found in the outer shell, the result of hitting a shoal as we passed through the narrows. Luckily, it didn’t penetrate through the white fiber or else a strip of duck tape would have been required - a definite repair job in the offering after this trip – the canoe’s "battle scars" will become "fuel" for future trekking stories to tell the grandchildren!!

In the back of our campsite, located next to the abandoned railway line, was an old, dilapidated log building. This premise must have been used as a tourist resort or for logging purposes in days gone by. Two large stone chimneys and fireplaces were still in tack and it was evident that it once had a large veranda on two sides. The door to the cellar was open; however, it was too dangerous to venture within the fallen structure in the event the flooring collapsed. Further inspection revealed that there were other outbuildings nearby; a garage where a vehicle was once stored (we could still smell the oil and see the trail where the vehicle traversed), a storage shed, a few remaining logs of two large cabins (perhaps for staff or loggers) and an underground shelter, similar to a root cellar, containing many empty diesel fuel cans. In the gully in front of the shelter entrance were ruminants of old vehicle parts strewn helter-skelter. We came to the conclusion that the vehicle motor had been used as a generator, because among the trees, we could see old insulators and wiring that carried electricity to the main lodge. In the dead grass next to the lodge, Norm H. found two insulators of different styles that were to be kept as souvenirs. In front of our campsite, there still existed the remains of rusted wheels and axils and a partially dismantled trolley sitting on smaller rail tracks semi submerged in the lake. It may have been used to transport provisions and people from larger boats or for hauling boats from the lake onto the shore. Norm H. made a "mental note" to contact Parks Ontario for more information on this site.

Norm Hooper soloing to the next site

Norm Hooper passing an island

Our supper that evening consisted of Mexican chili, veggie pasta, bannock bread and the last of the wine – a hearty reward after the efforts of our day. In the latter part of the evening, except for the occasional calling of the loons, all was calm again. The moon was so bright that the surroundings took on the appearance of "daylight" – what a fantastic view and ambience – making the efforts of this trip so worthwhile.