Algonquin Park Wilderness Canoe Trip

Algonquin Park
Wilderness Canoe Trip
Cedar Lake to Mink Lake Region
September 10-16, 2000
by Norm Hooper
Part 5

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Another Story
by Norm Hooper

During the night at approximately 2 am, Norm H. was awakened by a light rain falling on the tent and got up to retrieve some drying clothes off the line. On route, he heard a noise coming from the vicinity of the campfire and shone his flashlight in that direction. Two wide, yellowish shining eyes reflected back without any movement coming from this unknown creature. The first thought that came to mind was that it was a bear as we had seen some bear dung on the trail to the privy. However, there was no distinct and offending odour present that normally is associated with bears. We had not heard any wolves howling since our arrival to the park and raccoons were normally very disruptive and noisy; however, the "bear" theory would hold up! Norm backed up slowly and made his way back to the tent as Wayne was answering to a call of nature. Together we investigated further, but there was no sign, noise or distinct tracks within the campsite. While the "fathom life" of Algonquin Park was being addressed, Norm R. soundly slept through the entire adventure.3

Sept. 14^th – It rained during the night and we awoke at 7 am to a cold (12C/55F) and damp morning. After a breakfast of porridge, coffee, and pancakes with maple syrup, we were ready to set course for our day trip to the end of Mink Lake. Again, we decided to shorten our original plans for this outing and cancelled Whitebirch, Waterclear and Club Lakes as part of our return trip.

On route, we noticed a man and woman leaving their campsite and at the portage, we learned that they were from Ohio and that it was their first visit to Algonquin Park. After welcoming them to Canada and to the Park, we watched as they made their way through the portage with some very heavy backpacks and a canoe on route to Kiosk.

The portage between Cauchon Lake and Mink Lake was brutal – a very steep climb over boulders and roots along an uneven pathway which required careful attention to avoid slipping and falling. Halfway through this portage, we crossed over the abandoned railroad bed and started our steep descent over the same type of terrain. Norm H. carried his canoe solo while Wayne and Norm R. carted the second canoe and the backpack.

Mink Lake was found to be quite long and narrow with a ridge of trees on both sides of it. A magnificent pair of loons greeted us, staring intently as we passed. Further on, at a peninsula, there appeared to be an ideal campsite, unfortunately, we were prohibited from setting up a camp according to park regulations. At the end of the lake, we located the portage, with a logjam at the entrance to a stream that led to Little Mink Lake. Following a snack break, we started our return trip and met a couple of young men who had canoed the Nipissing River area. They stated that it was an extremely difficult trip, that they had spotted some moose and that a bear stole some of their food during the night -clearly there was no problem with "fathom" animals on this trek for them!! They appeared haggard and weary and were probably looking forward to the end of their trip.

As storm clouds persistently gathered, we felt that it was best that we get off Mink Lake and head for our base camp. The return trip through the portage was just as enduring as it was in the opposite direction. We were glad that we agreed to make this a side trip and not have had to repeat this portage two or three times with heavy equipment! Once on Cauchon Lake, Norm H. soloed the rest of the way to camp with a welcoming steady tailwind. However, about a half-mile from shore, the winds picked up with white-capped waves. Finally reaching base camp and following a quick swim and wash, we settled into some warmer clothes. Pitching Wayne’s canoe on its side as a windbreak, a nourishing lunch was prepared. Wayne, being a canoe instructor, took the time to assist Norm R. on some paddling techniques while Norm H. caught up with his notes. In the bay next to our camp, the loons continued their serenading as they did most mornings, evenings and sometimes during the night.

Norm R. indicated that for one reason or another, this day seemed more difficult than others. Twenty-two kilometers of canoeing and his attempt to solo earlier that morning resulted in tired and sore arms. During our trip today, the wilderness seemed less daring and more peaceful with low-lying hills displaying their fall colours. The return trip lost some of its appeal and one sensed that this trip had reached its end – fatigue had begun to take its toll on all of us.

Wayne and Norm R. re-arranged the tarp so that we could sit on the benches and be protected from the wind and smoke. Wayne then kept busy by splitting firewood for the evening. Supper consisted of wild thyme turkey, sticky rice, pita bread and raspberry cobbler – thank heaven for dry foods! We sat around the campfire talking and taking the occasional sip of the medicinal scotch – it sure "hits the spot" on a cold evening just before bedtime! As we entered our tents, a large flock of geese flew overhead, but in a northerly direction - they may have had their seasons mixed up or else our medicinal scotch was beginning to affect our sense of direction! We had a cool breeze throughout the night and making the 3 am call to nature was a tad chilly! The pine trees made the sound of the very strong winds even more noticeable throughout the night.

Sept 15^th – At 6:45 am, we were all awaken at the same time by the noisy loons, but none of us wanted to get out of the warm sleeping bags because of the chilly (10C/50 F) morning. Wayne’s effort to cut some firewood the previous evening was very much appreciated as it didn’t take long before we had a warm fire going. While preparing breakfast, several flocks of geese flew by in a southerly direction. Hopefully last night’s flock was with them!

tree growing on rock.

lonely red bush along the shore

By 9 am, we had decamped and had our canoes packed and ready for our return trip to Cedar Lake. The "wind gods" were with us this morning as we enjoyed a cool breeze at our back. The dark clouds threatened a storm, so as a precaution, we covered our equipment with tarps and wore rain gear to keep us warm and dry. At the halfway point down Little Cauchon Lake, we noticed a small coniferous tree precariously clinging to a sloping rock ledge resembling a sentinel guarding this place of honour. Wayne indicated that it was the same scene on the front cover of one of our past Bell Canada telephone directories. Photos were taken of it with Norm H. passing by in his canoe. By the time we reached Lauren Lake, we had cut one hour off from our original trip going to Cauchon Lake.

Wayne soloed across Lauren Lake into gusty winds and at the portage we met a young couple from Munster Hamlet enjoying their lunch. They had a new 2000 Langford, 16.6 Prospector Kevlar canoe (similar to Norm H’s) and, as a matter of fact, all their equipment and clothing were new. They had being tripping from Kiosh through Maple Lake, down the Nipissing River and now back to Kioshkokwi Lake. The young lady appeared cold with her hands tucked in the sleeves of her raincoat – not surprising with the cold headwinds and rain they encountered that morning, and unfortunately would continue to run into before they reached their destination. The young man stated that during the previous day, they were walking along a portage and a bear was spotted walking in the woods parallel to them. Once aware of their presence, the scared bear scurried off into the woods – much to their relief!

At the other end of the portage, we met a middle-aged couple with a large, friendly, black dog that was carrying its own body pack. They had some heavy, but well-organized backpacks – the woman certainly carried her share of the load. They were heading to Carl Wilson Lake by way of a one-mile portage along the dam while their return trip would take them through the three portages that we had originally planned, but later cancelled.

entering the train tunnel

view through the tunnel

Wayne continued to solo on Aura Lee Lake, through the train bridge tunnel, the channel and out the shoal passage into Little Cedar Lake. By then, the winds picked up (again the mid-afternoon syndrome) and Wayne had to utilize his keen paddling and canoeing techniques to remain in control and on course. While Wayne was in the dark train bridge tunnel, he took a photo of Norm R. and Norm H. departing the tunnel at the opposite end – this should make for a very unique photo. Out on Cedar Lake, we saw that the foliage had enhanced into vibrant colours during our absence of three days. In another couple of weeks, the fall foliage will have peaked; however, with the strong winds in this part of the park, it is doubtful the leaves will remain that long on the trees.

Island Campsite

Fall Foliage

We had a choice of campsites, either on a small island that would require our retrieving our cache at the other campsite the following morning or continuing on to the original camp. If both campsites were occupied; however, it would mean that we would have to paddle for another hour further down the lake. The island campsite was checked out first and, to our surprise, the remains of an exquisite stone fireplace and chimney were discovered. What was so unique was that the premise no longer existed, and in its place were several pine trees, estimated at about 50-75 years of age. We felt that the location was not suitable for pitching a tent, as the openness did not provide enough protection from the winds. We crossed the lake and found our original site which had not been occupied during our absence and our cache was untouched. It was like coming home after a long vacation!

Wayne and Norm R

Wayne and Norm H.

After setting up camp and eating some warm food, we packed some of our equipment ahead of time for our return trip to the Brent wharf the following morning. For about an hour, we were interrupted constantly by a squabbling red squirrel and a chipmunk that were running after each other throughout the camp and trees.

Supper consisted of sweet and sour shrimp, some leftovers from previous meals and blueberry cobbler for dessert. As evening passed, Wayne noticed, through the sparse trees of the campsite, a "bright fireball" sunset descending beyond the hillside to the west of Cedar Lake. Both he and Norm R. retrieved their cameras and ran "ram shod" through the bush to the open shoreline in an attempt to capture this special moment. Unfortunately for Wayne, he had forgotten to reload his camera; however, Norm R. photographed this spectacular image just before it vanished behind the horizon. Seated around the campfire and sipping the last of the scotch, we discussed the highlights of our trip. Before going to bed, we stood on the shoreline and took in the profound view of a clear sky with its numerous stars and full moon reflecting on the lake for one last time. The biting wind promised another cold night.