This collage of events took place over
the period of eighteen years. it describes the highs and the lows, the drudgery
and serenity, the extremes of weather, the camaraderie, the bizarre and the fun
that only the boundary waters can provide. For
those just starting and those near the end of their sojourns , may the waves lap
gently and the campsite be unoccupied.
It all began back in the early seventies
when I bought a canoe kit and spent some midnight oil between working in a
factory and running a restaurant part time. It was a kit that required a
good bit of messy fiberglass glue but it didn't end up looking too bad and best
of all it didn't leak. I took my two youngest sons into an easily
accessible area of Clearwater Lake not being familiar with the more remote
accesses. We had a pup tent, some dried rice, some bouillon, pancake mix
and high hopes of eating fresh caught fish. The time of year was June and
the mosquitoes had a reunion which we were cordially invited to every minute.
On our way up it grew late before we could find our turnoff so we decided to
sleep under the canoe as it was raining pretty hard. This was not a good
idea and constituted a very bad start.
After a night of absolute misery
the day dawned clear and we embarked down the trail to a lovely beach where we
launched the canoe. We found a nice campsite about half way down the lake,
pitched our tent and prepared to catch fish. We caught nothing. We drifted
the lake and fought the wind back to camp, nearly capsized, had rice and
bouillon, and retired. The next day was swimming day and after we turned
blue (only a few minutes), it was back to fishing and another supper of rice and
bouillon. The next morning we had pancakes ( without butter or syrup ).
Big hit. Rice and bouillon for supper. One more day of this
delicious cuisine and I had two boys contemplating cannibalism. We headed
for town and I saw the back of my son's white T shirt had turned black.
Mosquitoes. To replenish our red blood cells we stopped at a cafe in Grand Marais. I watched two savages attack anything that could be
swallowed. I knew our next trip would be better.
It was now the eighties and a friend at work gave me a book by Pat
McManus entitled "The Grasshopper Trap" and from that came the first
Grasshopper expedition to the BWCA. It was planned to a fare thee
well with a food list that required a 70# food pack, a chef's array
of utensils, saws, axes, bed rolls, air mattresses, waterproof
matches, towels, biodegradable soap, a K-Bar, bushels of gorp and an
admonition to pack light. We crossed Vermillion towed by a friend's
blue smoke special and reached the first portage into Trout Lake with
enthusiasm, the smell of two cycle oil in our lungs and a huge cargo
to carry over the 16 rod portage. Our destination was Pine lake which
has a portage that seems all uphill with a final 1/4 mile of peat bog
that cools your feet and produces the healthiest black flies and
mosquitoes on the planet. I can still taste that first handful of gorp as we rested in the launch area into Pine Lake.
We returned to
Pine lake many times in our eighteen years and each time brought back
that same flavor as we prepared to enter Pine Lake, camp in the
island site and dwell on the memories that never faded. One time we
arrived to a week of rain and the only fire we could conger up was on
a tiny Coleman camp stove. We struggled all week with wet bedding,
undercooked food and the never ending drip from our makeshift tarp
roof. Finally Friday came and as we planned our departure the rain
stopped, the sky began to clear and the most fabulous rainbow came
up. Another memory.
Pine lake had some of the finest walleye fishing we ever
experienced. We always had fish to eat (no more rice and bouillon)
and an occasional turtle. Plus we had the voluminous food pack that
produced such gems as hoe cake, beef Romanoff, spaghetti, chili,
cheese soup, scalloped potatoes and the treats of hot cocoa, coffee,
tea, granola bars, candy bars and of course gorp. One trip produced a
northern so big that we measured it to figure the weight and it
tallied out at 32 pounds. That is a lot of fish to land from a
canoe. We taped the release and watched as it recovered and swam
away awaiting the shock of some future angler. We swam in Pine Lake
in May (most of our trips were in May about a week after the ice
went out). And when it was time to leave sometimes we would float
down Pine Creek to avoid the drudgery of the portage to Trout. There
is a warm shallow bay where Pine Creek empties into Trout lake and
one especially warm sunny day we waded and wallowed for half a day in
this bath water. Most of Trout Lake is deep and cold and motors are
allowed so we seldom stayed but one night on our way out. There was
a time we traversed down Trout on our way to the portage to
Vermillion that the weather turned nasty. We were heading south into
a wicked cold Northwesterly wind and the whitecaps were growing with
each stroke of the paddle. Norwegian Point was our destination and
it was barely visible as we embarked. It was head down and dig with
the paddles as we bounced and swayed in the waves that slapped our
gunwales and faces. We were wet, cold and sure that the throws of
death were imminent. Somehow we arrived at the point and pulled into
the relative calm of the protected shore sure that we should have
waited for calmer seas.
Not all of our trips were just base camp trips. We also planned and
executed several circular voyages that tested us in several ways. We
got lost, we fought winds and waves, we damn near froze one morning
on Moose Lake and ran rapids, climbed Devil's Cascade, trekked to
Johnson Falls, relived the steps of a ranger's recordings , visited
pictographs and sat out many an evening by a smoldering camp fire
sipping on hot cocoa, swapping memories and lies and pitying the poor
souls that would never know what was to be experienced in this serene
rugged land. We heard strange noises in the night, watched moose
swim in front of our vessel, observed eagles and fed sea gulls. We
paddled up rapids, explored creeks, built fires when the wood was
wet, slept in our boots and laid in the sun on a rock as the wisp of
a cloud provided a challenge to our imagination. There was poetry
written, songs sung and music played on the harmonica. And there
were various guests that came and went over the years. We had a
group of youngsters, relatives, coworkers, people from all walks of
life that joined us and even one memorable guy that we met via the
internet that joined from Chicago. We met him as we were going to
camp before crossing Vermillion. As we examined the campsite he got
out of his car, left the engine running and slammed the door. The
keys were inside and he had no extras. We were nowhere near any
civilization with a locksmith and the mosquitoes were swarming like
they knew how vulnerable we were. With no wings on the windows of
the car and a door lock that was located on the door panel things did
not look good. It was getting darker by the minute (doesn't it
always) and our struggle seemed endless. But by some miraculous
gyration we were able to get a piece of wire fashioned from a coat
hanger to move the lock and open the door. Our new friend was dubbed
"Lockout" and no doubt carries extra keys to bed with him at night.
Back to Pine lake. On one memorial day (and it as HOT). My
nephew and I traveled over the hated portage to Trout lake to meet
my son and his wife who were to arrive around noon. They had never
been to the portage but I was confident my directions had been
adequate and at the least we would have done our part to meet them. The warm weather had hatched those huge black flies that look like
mutants, the ugly little black flies were everywhere gouging into
your ears and eyes and the mosquitoes managed to elbow in between the
other critters attacks. We were sweating as the sun reflected from
the lake onto our faces and the steady hum of the insects was
maddening. Off in the distance almost at noon I thought I saw a
canoe . Given the conditions I could not discount an illusion. I
looked again and could not see it. Yep had to be an illusion. A few
minutes later from around a point I saw my illusion had reached
reality. They were arriving as planned. As the canoe slid onto the
log my son opened a cooler in the center of the canoe and lo and
behold there in a sea of ice, rested 12 of the most delightful
looking frosted cans of Keystone Lite ever seen. We gleefully
scampered over the portage and paddled to our island camp where my
long time companion Paul was informed we had confiscated the
forbidden cans that just happened to be ice cold. We toasted the
arrival of this unexpected refreshment and queried whether the
Swedish Skydivers would soon be dropping into our midst. I can still
taste that brew.
We paddled St. Johns', Crane, Moose, Mountain, Pine, Vermillion,
Trout, Clearwater, North Fowl, Caribou and Little Caribou,
The Royal
River, Basswood, Agnes, Crooked and many others whose names escape
me. The unforgettable Basswood Falls, and the island campsite on
Pine lake will never fade and I can only envy those young enough to
embark on an annual tradition that I wish I had begun much earlier
than I did. I used to carry a 3/8 lazy ike. that had all the paint
chewed off ,to the boundary waters and this was the only lure I ever
needed to put walleyes in the pan. After my last trip to the
boundary waters that lure disappeared as if knowing it would never
touch the waters it commanded again. I miss that lure, the glide on
the still waters, the call of the loon, the misery experienced when
we had to portage a canoe that had harbored a nest of mice, the joy
of the end of the trip celebrated at Swen and Ollie's Pizza shop and
the time we decided a cheap motel would be preferable to another
night's camping (it wasn't). I even think I might have enjoyed
that night we pulled up to a camp site and heard the blare of
bagpipes just up the shore and paddled on. I've lost my glasses on
the Canadian Border in the coldest drop off in existence, experienced
black flies so bad the natives complained and had the best creme soda
I ever drank after a long paddle back to our jumping off spot. These
memories are like an all day every day matinee playing in my mind
triggered by pictures, videos and words that remind me of what I
experienced and stored for something to recall and enjoy just as I
did when the wind was soft, the water smooth and the rhythm of the
paddle automatic as breath. For all the ills of the world this
experience trumps the tragedies and gives one the realization that
this quality recreation is irreplaceable, unique and unforgettable.
Dale Netherton
319-878-3715
copyright 2006 Dale Netherton http://www.canoestories.com/fiction/18years.htm
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