Algonquin Park Canoe Camping Trip
September 12-18, 1999

by Norm Hooper

Part 3
Fighting waves and waving the flag

Sept 17 - At 3:35 am, a lone wolf was howling out across the lake and when we got up at 6:50 am, the loons were found to be extremely vocal. The lake was calm with a blue layer of sky over the hillside, promising, finally, a "decent day".

American friends in the morning mist, Algonquin ParkAt 10:15 am, we took all our gear and canoes to the entrance of the portage. Looking out over the lake, we could see four canoes which appeared to be going helter skelter looking for the portage. On our return trip through the portage, we met these canoeist (8 Americans) who were dressed in Army camouflage - they had been on the lakes for a week. One member had been coming to the Park since 1981, while for another, it was his first trip. After learning that they were planning on staying on Kioshkokwi Lake for the night, our first thought was to make it to this lake first and claim our desired campsite. For us, the "challenge was on" and we pushed ourselves with vigour. It didn’t take long to get through this portage and onto the small river. Before reaching the next portage, we had to walk our canoes over the rocks through a small channel. We were sure that the Americans didn’t walk their canoes through this channel, but pushed through because they seemed to come upon us quickly through the second and third portages. It seemed that they had taken on the challenge as well. While talking to the Americans, we learned that they were from various states. John mentioned an excellent site at the train bridge at the far end of the lake - a complete diversion to where we would want to see them going, namely our intended site. We couldn’t take any chances, so we pushed on, non-stop and obsessed. After departing this final portage, we passed through the channel to avoid hitting the dead logs. A heron, osprey and several ducks could be seen along the shore. Kioshkokwi Lake was vicious with swells and white caps and we had to work hard to maintain our course without capsizing or getting water into the canoe. Part way across the lake, we noticed that our intended campsite was unoccupied and with no Americans in pursuit- this put a smile of satisfaction on everyones’ face, especially after all the hard work we had to endure. Arriving at the beach, John claimed victory by presenting his Canadian flag on his pouch into the air.

Evening on Manitou LakeAfter a short rest and a hardy and satisfying lunch, we set up our camp and prepared for the evening. John thinks that he has put on weight during this trip (what a laugh!). We spent the remainder of the afternoon pursuing personal interests, such as talking, fishing, lying out in the sun on the beach, and later, all of us going for a swim. The water was much colder than last Sunday, and this might have been caused by the strong winds churning up the colder water.

At 6 pm, Wayne and Norm H. gathered fire wood from the beach. John and Wayne paddled out to the big rock to retrieve a lure Norm H. had got caught in some rocks. Norm H. soloed around the point and onward to the second American campsite where a bull moose could be seen in the bay along the water’s edge. Something spooked it and it wandered back into the woods. Talked to the Americans for a while and returned to camp where Wayne was showing John some paddling techniques in front of the beach.

At 8 pm, we prepared supper while an osprey was flying about and some chickadees were scattering about among the trees in front of our camp. Wayne offered them some food, but they seemed to be interested in something else. Loons were conducting their serenade while a flock of geese honked their way in a southerly direction over the lake.

Evening sunset on Manitou LakeThe sky was so clear, full of stars and with a half moon reflecting onto the lake. Without a wind, it was still cool enough to see one’s breath while sitting around the campfire. Norm H. learnt that Norm R. knew Pete Laxton (Norm H.’s troopmate) and Bob Vary (from Norm H.’s hometown) and had worked with them in Montreal - a small world.

Norm R. let out "moose calls" on two different occasions over the lake during the evening - this should have aroused the Americans at the next campsites; however, the next morning they stated that they had gone to bed early and never heard anything.

Sept 18th - The night was so cold that we buried ourselves into our sleeping bags. Having pitched our tents on a slight slope, Wayne and Norm H.’s sleeping bags kept slipping downward during the night. Up at 7 am, a warm fire was a welcome. The lake was still and covered with a heavy fog. At 8 am, four honking Canadian geese flew so close over our campsite that we could almost reach up and touch them. Watching them leave over the lake, we noticed the Americans, in their full combat fatigues, canoeing around the point and out of the fog. We weren’t sure if we were about to be attacked for taking their campsite, so John yelled out, "Hold the fort under whatever cost". Kidding aside, they were very friendly neighbours and Wayne will be sending them the pictures he had taken of them in their canoes.

heading home from Algonquin Provincial ParkWith the fog gradually lifting, we were able to see the outline of the hillside across the lake. Over a one week period, we definitely noticed a change in the Fall colours in the foliage. At 10:15 am, Wayne and Norm H. were the last to leave the campsite and, as they did, a large raven perched in a tree over the fireplace, looked down at them and let out a few "caws". Hopefully, he was telling us that he enjoyed our company and hoped that we would return to the Park again next year - an omen? Paddling across the tranquil lake to the Ranger Station was peaceful and reminiscing, but at the same time sad because the week had passed by too quickly and our trip was coming to an end. If all goes well as planned, that raven will be there next year to welcome us to another exciting and challenging canoe trip to Algonquin Park.

Norm Hooper

Copyright 2001 by Norm Hooper
http://www.canoestories.com/hooper1.htm