Killarney Canoe and Hiking Trip

Killarney
Canoe & Hiking Trip

Norman Hooper &
Wayne Morrison
September 12-19, 2005

By Norm Hooper

Part 5

In pre-dawn light, we emerged from our tent to the call of nature. The wind stroked our faces as we peered out toward the opposite shore under a clear sky still gently clustered with stars. Unable to return to sleep, we prepared a full course meal of pancakes & jam, bacon and coffee – we needed all the energy possible for our daylong hike.


Wayne preparing breakfast at the approach of dawn

By 9 am, we paddled the misty lake effortlessly and passed by the rock island heading towards the Silver Peak hiking trail. The lake was splendidly blue and not fraught with waves, its peace and beauty seeping deeply into our souls. At campsite 104, a kayaker and two canoeists from Toronto readied themselves to depart for the day. They had hiked the summit the previous day and warned us not to hike straight ahead on the second ridge, but to follow the cairns and descend the slanting, shelved cliff to the blue, pointed-arrow marker trail.


Wayne looking for cairn on the ridge	Norm with Silver Peak in the background

Wayne carried the backpack of water and snacks and took the lead, keeping a lookout for the hiking markers on the trees. The steep-inclined trail was well rutted with roots and rocks of all shapes and sizes – it was imperative to watch one’s footing to avoid stumbling and/or causing injury. Flat stone surfaces and terraces were available for breathtaking views that stretched for miles over the vastness of the park. Large stone cairns, evenly spaced apart for safe passage, had been built on the barren ridges as our guideline. White quartzite rock was loosely strewn about and care had to be taken to not step improperly. And winter ice had expanded rock crevices making some large slabs extremely unstable and dangerous to traverse. Glacial striations, created by rocks caught in gigantic fields of moving ice tens of thousands of years ago, were seen in other areas of the ridge - it felt like we were "walking on history". On both ridges (297m or 975 ft elevation), David Lake could be seen on one side and Boundary Lake on the other, their valley forests mixed with coloured layers of rock and beginning signs of changing autumn foliage. The descent on loose rock ledges had to be carefully orchestrated - there was definitely no rush. Although the weather was cool, we sweated from the excursion and water breaks were essential.

The forest smelled both very alive and very dead at the same time. Various species and configurations of mushroom and fungi growth along the trail intrigued Norm, a photographer’s delight (click to see photos). We came upon a wetland pond strewed with decayed trees and stumps. Each time we advanced, the pond took on a whole new perspective and imagery – a prime example of nature’s wilderness at its best.

The pond along to the trail to Silver Lake

The ascending and descending terrain provided a good workout with each step as we drew nearer to the peak. At an eroded outcrop, water gurgled deep within long, dark clefts and out into a shallow pool where an old beaver dam took refuge among the overgrown grasses and alders. We took a short break; however, our instincts soon told us to get underway and penetrate deeper into the forest maze. Occasionally, chipmunks chattered, songbirds warbled or a woodpecker rapped in a zealous fashion, warning others of our approach until we had passed and they were out of danger’s way.

The trek to the intersection was achieved in an hour; the trail to the left led to Clearsilver Lake while the horrendous ascent to Silver Peak was straight ahead. The sometimes, 60 to75-degree incline in the trail made our progress slow and arduous. The humidity and warm temperature soaked our shirts - body fluid flowed at an alarming rate. Near the top, we met a descending hiker who had stayed overnight to view the spectacular sunset and sunrise - he was halfway into a 20-day hike around the park. We painstakingly journeyed to the utmost top ledge where, forty miles away, smoke rose into the atmosphere and headed straight towards us from the tall stacks at the Sudbury nickel mine. The acidic mining residues from the smelting of ore were a major cause in the acidification and loss of biodiversity of so many park lakes in eastern Ontario many decades ago. Since the introduction of legislation in 1970’s, the Sudbury smelters have reduced their sulphur emissions by over 90 percent. The result has been an improvement in water quality, Ph levels and biological recovery in several park lakes, to the point that a restocking fish program has been ongoing in several parks.

The last segment of the climb involved horizontal shuffling along narrow ledges followed by vertical ascents. It was tempting to hold onto the clinging grasses among the rocks crevices; however, we had been previously warned not to do so because of their instability. A cool westerly wind against our soaked T-shirts told us we had finally reached the top of Silver Peak (539 m or 1768 ft) – mission accomplished.

Killarney Lake with Georgian Bay in the background - Killarney Provincial Park

View of Killarney Lake with Georgian Bay in the horizon

We stood next to the surveyor’s stake, rimming over with enthusiasm, our jaws agape with wide, smiling eyes. Norm climbed one final boulder and with camera in hand, took a 360-degree movie of the surrounding park region. We were awe-inspired by the diversity and beauty of this majestic country - a sea of boreal forest, lakes and valleys that flowed from horizon to horizon. In a southwest valley, we easily identified Killarney Lake as well as campsite 12 on Norway Lake where we had camped three nights previously – in the far-off horizon was Georgian Bay. We were amazed at how much territory we had covered in such a short period of time. On the opposite side of the peak, the long island where we were currently camped (#99) was easily distinguished among other smaller islands. The two ridges we had climbed earlier to reach the peak seemed so far away, yet the thought of having to descend this peak and over them were far from our minds. The grueling climb was definitely worth it – we kept returning to specific vistas over and over, trying desperately to etch their images into our mind.

Lunch was eaten behind the shelter of the big boulder, when a group of five was noted climbing a ridge next to the peak – they had gained access from a ledge path attached to the main trail. It was here we met the group during our descent as well as the arrival of three more hikers. In the far distance, we could not escape the buzz of the floatplane as it was taking off on David Lake.

Descending was faster, but not necessarily easier, with more strain placed on Norm’s ACL-braced knee. Wayne opted to continue carrying the backpack, much to the relief of Norm. The woods and nature beckoned as we leisurely took time to scan the forest. The trail soon became active with hikers ascending towards the peak – first, a couple using walking sticks approached us near the intersection while at the pond, a group of four. At the small gorge, three young men asked if Silver Peak was worthwhile – after sharing our enthusiasm, they continued their quest. The panoramic views at the two ridges were just as awesome as when we passed through earlier in the morning.

The pond along the trail to Silver Peak - Killarney Provincial Park

The pond along to the trail to Silver Lake

We headed back to our campsite just as the waves became choppy and the wind grew stronger, sweeping across a long reach of David Lake. Halfway across, we passed a canoe with a family of four; the mother and two young daughters were wearing life jackets; however, the father was not. Later in the day, the same family returned from their outing, but this time, both parents were not wearing life jackets. As a former recovery scuba diver with the RCMP, Norm had seen his share of drowning mishaps during his career. These parents were making the biggest mistake of their lives by neglecting the safety of their children as well as themselves – they were in dire need of a safe boating course and some common sense.

We looked forward to a well-deserved and refreshing swim following our eventful climb to Silver Peak and a wee dram of medicinal spirits to ward-off any aches and pains. To fill in some time, we designed a deck of cards out of Norm’s notebook and played a game of cribbage. Chocolate and coconut cookies were baked as an afternoon treat – ah, some good!

Again, the idyllic sunset, with its multi-layers of hues both in the sky and reflected upon the lake surface was spectacular. The noisy skein of migrating Canada geese flying overhead in a V-formation caught our attention as we settled in for a peaceful evening.

In an instant, our solitude was interrupted when a floatplane passed our campsite and landed on the lake. Once again, we endured the echoing drum of the cottager’s intrusive generator followed by the sound of a smaller motor for the duration of the evening.


Incline ruggedness to Silver Peak


A hearty supper	Beginning of sunset


Sunset reflections on David Lake

Killarney Canoe & Hiking Trip

By Norm Hooper

Part 5

Killarney
Canoe & Hiking Trip